Thrice-Cooked Fries

Cut potatoes into 1/3-inch-thick steak fries.

Transfer fries to a bowl of cold water.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Drain potatoes, add them to pot, and boil just until tender, about 5 minutes.

Carefully drain potatoes and transfer them to a paper towel–lined rack to cool. Refrigerate until chilled, about 1 hour.

In a large, deep skillet, heat 2 inches of oil to 250°F. Set a rack over a baking sheet. Working in batches, fry potatoes just until they begin to brown around the edges, about 8 minutes.

Transfer the potatoes to the rack and let cool. When all of the potatoes have been fried once, heat the oil to 350°F.

Fry potatoes again, in batches, until golden and crisp, about 7 minutes per batch.

Drain the fries on a paper towel–lined baking sheet.

Sprinkle with salt and serve.